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Home»Lifestyle»Food & Wine»Food with Paul – potatoes
Food & Wine Lifestyle

Food with Paul – potatoes

By The Ridge Magazine09/09/20135 Mins Read

It’s happened to all of us before. You roast your potatoes for what feels like eternity and the only thing that goes crispy is the bread that used to be fresh while you wait … and wait … and wait. Your mashed potato is lumpy – even though your adrenalin is pumping from the “workout”, and that potato salad you had in Greece is a distant memory as you’ve never been able to quite get it right. How could a simple potato be so difficult to master? Chances are you’re using the wrong potato for the job. Your potato redemption is close – you just need to know what you are buying and what it’s good for. After all no one ever made award-winning wine from table grapes….

For the best mash …

Look for Up-to-Date potatoes – not a pretty potato, they’re an odd uneven shape with slightly dry paper-like skin that peels easily. Cut your potatoes into even-size pieces (so they cook evenly) and boil until you can pierce them easily with a fork. Strain them, then toss them back into the same pot to keep them warm.

Add some milk and butter. When it comes to the butter I like to err on the side of too much – but this is my personal preference. Add salt and pepper to taste … and this is where good mash becomes great … a handful of grated Parmesan cheese. But for the best mash ever, add an egg yolk or two while the mash is hot … you won’t look back.

For best results and no lumps, invest in a good potato masher from any reputable kitchen shop. And never stick them in a blender as they’ll go gooey from too much starch being released.

Roast potatoes and chips …

Look for Fianna or Up-to-Date potatoes, well as Vanderplank – which are best for chips. Fianna is quite a good-looking spud with a light colour and even shape. Peel and halve, making sure you get similar sizes. Place potatoes in a pot, and cover with boiled water from a kettle. Leave to simmer for 10 minutes.

In the meantime heat the oven to 220°C. Liberally pour some cooking oil into a roasting dish to cover the bottom. If you have fat from your roast, now’s the time to add it. If you don’t, use lard or duck fat, or throw a few sprigs of rosemary and some butter into the oil. Heat the oil in the oven – this is very important.

Strain your spuds and throw them back into the pot, cover and shake them around. This shaking creates the textured crunchy skin on your roasties. Now add the potatoes to the roasting dish … there should be a glorious sizzling sound if you’re doing it right. Using a tablespoon coat every potato in hot oil. Bang them in the oven for about 45 minutes. You’ll know when they’re cooked, and what’s great is that you don’t have to turn them as they will brown themselves. Remove them from the oil and place on kitchen paper. Lastly, season well.

My favourite potato salad

I’m not talking about lots of mayo, boiled egg at-the-braai potato salad, although there is a time and place for this. I’m talking about a salad where the potato is the “star” helped with a dash of extra virgin olive oil.

I love the little waxy Mediterranean potatoes we can get these days. Keep the skin on and boil until they’re tender all the way through. Strain and leave to cool. Cut them in half so their waxy yellow flesh can absorb the dressing.

In a mixing bowl add half a cup of olive oil, 2 tablespoons of white wine vinegar, a teaspoon of Dijon mustard, a pinch of oregano, 3 whole anchovies, one chopped garlic clove, a handful of chopped Italian parsley and a bay-leaf. Give this a good mix with a fork or whisk until the oil and vinegar combine and the anchovies break up. You’ll notice that it changes colour.

Toss the potatoes into this dressing, then add half a red onion that has been finely chopped, a handful of pitted Kalamata olives, and a few capers. Add salt and pepper to taste. I like to top it with a soft-boiled egg and a couple of whole white anchovies, but this isn’t for everyone. Serve with a piece of grilled swordfish or a roasted pork chop. The best!

Spud savy

Shopping for potatoes is not as easy as it seems. And it doesn’t help that many retailers simply pile up their potatoes with no description of what potato you’re buying. But, the good news is things are changing and people are asking – so don’t be shy when shopping for spuds.

Some of us like to buy potatoes by the pocket, which you’ll usually find stored underneath the potatoes out on display. But here are a couple of pointers:

●Beware of pockets that are sealed with wire as they may be recycled, and the potatoes inside of a different varietal as displayed on the packaging. Pockets sealed with woven string are direct from the farm.

●The varietal will be printed on the bottom of the packaging. Beware of packaging where the varietal is indicated by a sticker … peel it off. The real varietal will be printed underneath.

 

cooking with potatoes Marco Paulo paul sheppard
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