We meet ‘Mr Surfing’

A gentle, worldly-wise soul, iconic South African surfer Shaun Tomson appears exactly in real life as he looks in photographs and on film. The day I interview him he’s wearing shades (don’t remember the brand) so it’s impossible to see his eyes, but I’m sure they’re smiling. He’s got a wide grin, warmly welcoming conversation with some small town hack he’s never heard of.

This is the mark of the man . . . world famous, a hero here at home, but he’s got time for everyone. After we’ve chatted, I watch Shaun keep to himself, yet warmly greet every friend, surf fan or journalist who bugs him for a chat. Very natural, very genuine.

But then again, put him in the water and you just might see an altogether different animal come out to play. While we chat, his eyes constantly scan the surf for a peak here, a slight change in conditions there.

Let’s not forget, the dude won six Gunston 500 titles in a row in the 70s and remains South Africa’s only world champion surfer (1977), with Jordy Smith pushing him close, having finished up runner-up last year.

Surfing exhibition

Shaun’s in town to take part in a legends surfing exhibition at the Mr Price, but you get the feeling the contact with fans and mentorship of young talented surfers is just as important to Durban’s famous son.

My first question: “Do you still have the passion, the love for the sport that would get you out of a warm bed in a chilly morning to paddle out in search of a good ride.”

“Oh yes, I’m still in love with surfing,” says Shaun with that slightly amused smile. “I get out there as often as possible.”

Shaun Tomson still calls Santa Barbara, California home, having lived there for many years. His local is Hammond’s Reef, although he’s well within driving distance of Rincon, a famous point break that runs and runs and is documented in Shaun’s book Surfer’s Code (A YouTube search for Rincon is well worth it, as there’s ample footage of just how gnarly this wave is).

“Rincon is one of my favourite waves, but I can tell you it’s so exciting to be here, a place I first surfed in the early 70s.”

Here, is Willard Beach, Ballito, the setting for the 2011 Mr Price Pro Ballito six star prime event co-hosted by Ballito, Mr Price and ASP Africa. “It’s a great wave, I know some spectacular surf is forecast for the week.”

Getting acquainted

I throw out some names and ask Shaun if he’s acquainted with, say, Casey Grant or Beyrick de Vries.

“That’s why I’m here bru. I’ve heard about the talent and I can’t wait to witness it for myself. I follow the world tour, but otherwise in the US it’s all NFL or NHL, so I haven’t seen these young guys and ladies, but this is the time.”

Shaun’s also here to surf in the legend exhibition, along with other surf legends like Jonathan Paarman. “That’s going to be loads of fun. Spider (Murphy) has shaped some boards for me. We’re keen to replicate the conditions of the 70s, including the boards, but really it’s all about getting a few waves out there and sharing some laughs.”

Shaun laughs that if the heavy swell forecast comes through, they may battle just to make it to backline. “Hey the ballies will be stoked just to get out there.”

Powerhouse

Shaun has absolutely no doubt that South Africa should be a world surfing powerhouse. “With our conditions, weather and superb surf breaks we should be churning out contenders. I hear there’s loads of talent and can’t wait to see it. I think the problem is that surfing occupies a weird space in the South African sports psyche, it’s not in the mainstream, the likes of soccer, rugby and cricket, but it’s such a popular cult sport. Maybe we’ll get there one day.”

I ask him what he’s learnt after being involved in pro surfing for nearly 40 years.

“It’s a bit weird at times to look at the scene now and think that, along with my mates, we pioneered the world tour. That’s probably the thing I’m most proud of, is that we wanted to be professionals and we achieved it. Also, that we were more dynamic and I promoted my own carving, power surfing style that helped take the sport to the next level.

“But it’s important to be true to yourself. I remain the same guy I was as when I started out. I love surfing I love the lifestyle. I speak to young surfers because I love to see young people be the best that they can be. My advice is always free and I hope I can make a contribution in some small way. – By Garth Johnstone