Often slow-cooked, with only a few simple aromatics, inexpensive cuts of meat or bold winter vegetables, these favourites can deliver the deepest, richest and most satisfying bowls of goodness on earth, writes Ant Ellis.
When I think of curries, stews, braises, tagines, tray bakes or pot roasts from around the world, I envisage hearty family meals that, for my squad at least, require only some fresh bread and a couple of gallons of good wine. But beyond the end result, let’s talk about the benefits of this style of cooking.
Firstly, they’re DUH easy: One-pot dishes really require one thing to be successful – patience. Some simple preparation and you’re halfway there – just remember to keep your protein moist, and don’t burn it like a klutz – just let ’em go, low and slow, for as long as possible and you’re the heavyweight cooking champion of the world with no training whatsoever.
Secondly, they’re so versatile you don’t need a recipe. Aim for balance, season correctly and keep it relatively simple, you can’t mess it up (don’t quote me). Classic combinations are classics for a reason: lamb, red wine and thyme; beef, vegetables and stout; chicken, garlic and lemon; butternut, yoghurt and coriander. Hungry yet? Just add creamy mashed potatoes, dumplings, steaming savoury rice, spicy lentils or even pasta and some greens. Mouth-watering!
Thirdly, if you’ve ever wondered what to do with those vegetables or left-overs other than relegate them to the bin, salvation is here! Minimise your waste and crank up the flavour, plus, hide the healthy vegetables that kids think they hate by stealth-cooking them into ridiculously delicious meals.
I had a kick-ass chat with my amigo, Durban food legend Shaun Smith. Among other things, Shaun is a celebrity chef, international judge, culinary educationist, chef school principal, restaurateur, food scientist and molecular gastronomist, which frankly over-qualifies him for a conversation about what may ostensibly be “stew” – but a couple of hours with Shaun guarantees you lessons in history, geography, science, chemistry, and of course, killing it in the kitchen. Plus, we played the same grungy music scene in different bands in the early 90s, so let’s say Rock the Kitchen sums Shaun up pretty well.
Shaun spoke, I listened carefully as a hailstorm raged outside. If I didn’t feel like getting into the kitchen before, I sure as hell did after we spoke! Here’s some of what he had to say. One-pot dishes aren’t relics of the stuffy domain of snotty French chefs. There are vibrant, seasonal and seriously delicious versions in every cuisine around the world. There are a couple of golden rules to stick to, for example, meat cooked on the bone is the way to go. Cook it long enough and you’ll not only get soft, tender and moist meat that falls apart, but the flavour is multiplied tenfold.
On temperature, pressure cookers can achieve the heat needed to tenderise and develop flavour in far less time, but why rush? Good things take time, and it’s worth every minute. Also, it shouldn’t end in a sloppy bowl of gruel. By using a combination of finely and roughly chopped aromatics, you’ll get a layered, textured result that’s as good to eat as anything else. Finally, consider the balance between base flavours (browned meat, caramelised vegetables), mid-notes (carrots, peppers, celery, garlic, ginger) and top notes to lift the dish (bright herbs, vinegars, and citrus).
So, oxtail. It ain’t everyone’s bag, but I’m going try and convert a few of you out there. Slow cooked, rich and unctuous, it’s a whole-day deal that’ll make you cry happy tears. I swear.
Shaun’s Outrageous Oxtail (Serves 4)
Ingredients
• 1kg oxtail
• flour, for dusting
• 1 tbsp sunflower oil
• 2 onions, 1 roughly chopped,1 finely chopped
• 3 carrots, 2 roughly chopped, 1 finely chopped
• 2 celery stalks, 1 roughly chopped,1 finely chopped
• 1 teaspoon minced garlic
• 3 teaspoons dried oregano
• ½ bunch thyme
• 2 rosemary stalks
• 2 bay-leaves
• 1 teaspoon salt
• 2 teaspoons of black pepper
• 2 tomatoes, chopped
• 1 teaspoon brown sugar
• 330ml beer/white wine
• 100ml beef stock
Method:
Dust oxtail with flour and brown in a small lidded pot in oil. Deglaze the pot with stock, loosening any bits stuck on the bottom. Add finely chopped carrot, onion and celery, sauté until soft. Add garlic, herbs, seasoning, tomatoes, sugar, beer/wine, stock and cover with a lid. Simmer covered in oven on a low heat for 2-3 hours. Add the large diced carrots, onion and celery, simmer covered for another 1-2 hours until meat begins to fall off the bone. Finally, season to taste and serve with buttery mash, green beans and eat in front of a movie you can fall asleep to.
Until next time, convenient and low-stress cooking doesn’t mean junky food, packet sauces or endless beans on toast. Think ahead, cut yourself a break and get stuck into some crazy-good comfort food.
Rock on!
For more info ant@rockthekitchen.co.za